Accounting for 90 percent of the world’s gem trade, diamonds are the rarest and most coveted of all stones.
Diamonds are found throughout the world from Southern Africa to Russia, from Brazil to Australia. Approximately 100 miles below the surface of the Earth the requisite heat and pressure 1300ºC and 50,000 times normal atmospheric pressure — for the formation of diamonds can be found. Carbon molecules, present in abundance at this level of the Earth’s mantle, forge together as diamond crystals.
Magma, bearing the crystals, is then forced to the surface, and solidifies in formations known as ‘pipes’, some of which are miles wide. Only 100 in every 500 pipes will yield a profit: Just 25 carats of diamonds can be expected from 100 tonnes of mined earth and of this, 5 carats will be of gem quality.
Extracting the diamonds from the earth creates another problem and separation takes advantage of the physical properties of the stones — being significantly heavier than most other gem minerals and fluorescing under X-rays.
Once mined and processed, the next step is to sort, classify and value the diamonds according to size, shape, quality and color. Using more than 16,000 categories, the diamonds are sorted and then sold to a small group of the world’s leading diamond cutters.
Before any cutting takes place, the marker carefully examines the diamonds to decide how they should be shaped to yield the greatest value and beauty.
The process of cutting a diamond is full of complex decisions and the shape of the rough determines the form of the polished stone.
In order to maximize the optical properties of diamonds, there must be a good understanding of the geometry of each stone and a decision is made whether to sacrifice weight for beauty. Retaining 50 percent of the carat weight of the original rough crystal is considered a good yield.
Once the shape and size of the diamond are determined, the diamond is marked for cutting. Although diamonds are the hardest material known to man, this hardness is variable and a diamond crystal has planes of relative strength and weakness, allowing it to be cleaved or sawn effectively.
The next step is bruting, which involves grinding away the edges of the stone to provide a basic outline. The stone is then given its facets — for a round brilliant-cut diamond there are 58 facets — in two phases: An initial 16 facets (the main crown and pavilion facets and the culet) are the responsibility of a cross-cutter, while the brillianteer grinds the remaining facets and gives the overall polish to the stone.
When grinding the stone, the facet angles must be adjusted to ensure the maximum amount of light entering the stone is transmitted back out by its internal facets — known as total internal reflection. This quality is termed as ‘brilliance’.
The ‘fire’ or rainbow-like effect also associated with a diamond is caused by the dispersion of light rays and again the correct balance must be achieved to have a stone that displays both fire and brilliance. Once cut, the stone is then graded for cut, color, clarity and carat weight – the so-called four C’s – by a gemological laboratory. We have added one more "C", for the Certificate, issued by a diamond lab.
Diamond Grading Terminology
A diamond's cost is based on the characteristics known as the "5 C's". Clarity, Color, Carat weight, Cut & Certification. These are the quality factors & elements which determine the value of a gem-stone. The closer a diamond grades to the top of the proper scale, the rarer and the more costly it will be.The reputation and recognition of the laboratory that certifies the diamond is extremely important; GIA or AGS labs are the most acceptable. While clarity is frequently assumed to be the most important factor of all the "C's", in fact, color and cut (especially cut), which may be evaluated by the naked eye, have a more profound affect on the visual appearance of a diamond.
Carat is the unit of weight for all gemstones. One carat is subdivided into 100 "points". Therefore a diamond measuring 75 points is 3/4 carat in weight, or 0.75 ct. There are five carats in a gram. The word "carat" comes from the seed of the carob tree pod which is found in tropical climates. These seeds were used until this century to weigh precious gems.
A diamond's clarity is determined by the following irregularities:
Inclusions; which relate to he amount, the nature, the position, the size and the color of internal characteristics.
Blemishes; which relate to surface features.
These irregularities occurred in the liquid magna (volcanic rock) within which the diamond was created. Diamonds are mostly pure carbon, however, during crystallization other minerals nearby, or even other bits of carbon forming more quickly may have become trapped within the cooling mass. These show themselves as the various characteristics which make up the clarity of a diamond (included crystals, feathers, clouds etc).
Clarity is measured on a scale ranging from pure (flawless) to heavily included (I-3). The clarity of a diamond is graded by using 10X magnification under good lighting by an experienced grader. The final clarity grade is usually determined by how easy the inclusions and blemishes are for the grader to see.
Ideally, a diamond should have no color at all, like a drop of spring water. Increasing degrees of body color are measured on a scale ranging from no color at all (D) to deeply colored (Z). Beyond "Z" is the range where the diamond's color is vivid and rich, called "fancy colors". Diamonds of known color are used as comparison stones for color grading. Grading is done by comparing the diamond to be graded against these "master stones" under either artificial or natural north daylight ( in the Northern Hemisphere). A machine called the "Colorimeter" can be used for color grading but there is no substitute for the trained human eye.
Cut, sometimes the forgotten "C", ensures that a given stone has maximum brilliance and sparkle which would not be the case were the stone cut for weight alone.
We use the following scale to grade a stone on it's overall appearance. The proportion page shows angles and percentages for round brilliant cut diamonds; but angles and percentages are for diamond cutters and graders. Simply put, when looking at a diamond, if it doesn't catch your eye or if it doesn't flash in the light, it's probably not well cut. Good cutting is what brings fire to the ice.
The cut of a diamond will determine how light is refracted back out and this will determine the fire and brilliance of the stone. A well cut diamond refracts nearly all the light entering it out of the top (crown) and sides. This results in the form of greater fire (colored light) and more brilliance (white light).
A certificate is a "blueprint" of a loose diamond. Also called the diamond grading report or diamond dossier, it tells you the diamond's exact measurements and weight, as well as the details of its cut and quality. It precisely points out all the individual characteristics of the stone. Certificates also serve as proof of the diamond's identity and value. Certification Protects Diamond Buyers
A certificate is not the same thing as an appraisal. A certificate describes the quality of a diamond, but it does not place a monetary value on the gem.
Diamond Certification Laboratories are independently run. The labs grade and check the diamonds to ensure the inspected diamonds have not been treated and are of natural origin. They then issue Certificates with each diamond to assure the owner that the diamond is free of all known treatments and enhancements. It also confirms the diamond is natural and not a synthetic diamond.
Some labs place laser inscription on the diamond's girdle, matching the certificate number, providing added confidence.
Labs & Certificates
- Where a diamond has been assessed by a laboratory it is termed a certificated or certified stone. The codes for the different laboratories used are as follows:
||Antwerp Diamond Laboratory
||Gemological Institute of America
||The American Gem Society
||National Gemological Institute of Israel
||Gem Information Laboratory
||Jewelery Council of South Africa
||Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain
||Diamond Grading Laboratories (London)
||Northern Gemological Laboratories (UK)
||European Institute (Antwerp)
||Diamond High Council (Antwerp)
||European Institute (Antwerp & London)
||Heinz R Gartner, DGemG, FGA (Germany)
||P N Ferstenberg Pbv A
||International Institute (Antwerp)
||Gesellschaft fur Angewandte Gemologies
||Precious Stone Laboratory (London)
||Gemological Institute of Antwerp
||Verena Pagel-Theisen, DGemG FGA (Germany)
||Werner Galia, DGem, (Germany)
Accurate assessment of a diamond is only possible prior to being set. Once the stone is set even a qualified diamond grader cannot precisely determine color, size and purity. The Diamond Certificate is only reliable if it is from an independent and qualified laboratory. Besides the international standards to which these laboratories grade, qualified laboratories have the necessary equipment to check for Synthetics, Stimulants and treatments.
Synthetic and treated diamonds have a significantly lower value, and this information should be disclosed.
It is crucial when choosing a diamond to review the diamond certificate, also known as a Diamond Grading Report, especially larger diamonds greater than 0.99 carat. This report documents the internationally recognized characteristics of a diamond, its carat weight, color, clarity, cut.
Know the five C's of the diamond you are looking at to ensure that good quality comes with a fair price.
Select the Cut or shape that pleases you. The proportions of the diamond will determine its brilliance.
As for Color, the difference in ratings is very slight, however, variance of only one grade can change the price by 10% or more.
Regarding Clarity, most diamonds have some blemishes and inclusions. Choose diamonds that hide these imperfections down deep in the stone or where the imperfections are to the side and can be hidden by prongs or bezels.
Always inspect the diamond before mounting.
Get a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certificate, AGS certificate, European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) Certificate, or a (IGI) Certificate of the diamond you are buying. This ensures honesty and sound investment.
If you want to upgrade your diamond after couple of years be sure to have the option of getting full credit towards the upgrade.
Popular Diamond Shapes
Round - Also called Brilliant, this is the diamond that is a favorite in engagement rings.
Emerald Cut - So-called because emeralds are often cut this way, rectangular or square, with facets polished diagonally across the corners.
Marquise - A pointed boat shape, usually long and narrow. In a ring, it tends to make the fingers look slim.
Pear Shape - popular in rings and often used in pendants. The world's largest cut diamond, Cullinan I, mounted in the British Royal Sceptre, is a pear shape.
Oval - an adaptation of the brilliant shape. The marquise, pear shape and oval all appear to be larger than a brilliant of the same carat weight.
Diamonds are fashioned into a number of shapes, depending on the nature of the rough stone. The eight most popular shapes are round, marquise, pear, oval, emerald, princess, radiant, and heart.
A common question: What is the cutting differences between Princess cut diamond and a Radiant cut diamond?
Generally speaking the princess cut retains more of the rough diamond by maintaining the shape of the rough stone that exists before cutting begins. This means manufacturers focus on maximizing "yield from the rough" rather than on the beauty of the diamond. In part, far more princesses are available on the market today because they are cheaper for manufacturers to produce. A radiant cut diamond is a combination cut between Round brilliant on top, and Emerald step cut on the pavilion area.
The choice is largely a matter of personal taste. Whatever your preference, a well cut diamond is the work of a master diamond cutter, since it is the cut that enables the diamond to reflect light, creating scintillation and sparkle. When a diamond is well proportioned, light is reflected from one facet to another and dispersed through the top of the stone as rainbows of color.
Every diamond regardless of its shape gets it brilliancy and scintillation by cutting and polishing the diamond facets to allow the maximum amount of light that enters through its top to be reflected and dispersed back through its top.
A correctly cut, "Ideal cut" stone is shown on the bottom right. As you can see if the angles are correct the light that enters is dispersed properly back through the diamond's top facets. When a stone is cut too shallow (center picture) or too deep (left picture) the light that enters through the top is allowed to escape through the diamond's bottom and does not allow the maximum beauty of the diamond to be realized.
A well cut diamond is beautiful because it's very brilliant. Of all the variables affecting the value of a diamond, the cut is the most crucial.
Diamonds are sold by weight in carats. The heavier the diamond, the more valuable it is. But bigger does not necessarily mean better. Quality is found in diamonds of all sizes
The carat weight sacrificed for the purpose of good to ideal proportions also factors into the price. In the illustration to the right, the shaded portion represents wasted crystal. All three are one carat diamonds; however, the two on the right are poorly proportioned and thus much less expensive.
The most important feature in evaluating a diamond cut is the accurate three-dimensional model. All examinations, calculations, and grading are done on this model. The model contains complete linear and angular information on each and every facet, including directional angles data which is crucial for symmetry observations and grading.
Figure 1 shows a summary of the diamond's linear and angular measurements from the diamond's side view. We can see the diamond's diameter, table size, total depth, crown height, girdle thickness, pavilion depth, culet size, average crown angle, and average pavilion angle. These average measurements are traditionally used for grading the diamond proportions.
In Figure 2 we can see the new angular measurements on each and every facet of the diamond, from the diamond's top and bottom views. This information is a vital source for symmetry and ray tracing calculations. Gem lab research has shown that no light performance observation or grading can be complete without using the individual facet angle information.
Figure 3 shows us the directional angle of every facet, from the diamond's top view. Similar data is available for the bottom part of the diamond. The numbers in this image represent the directional angle of the facet, starting at zero for the first bezel facet measured.
Figure 4 shows a different transformation of this data, usually more useful for diamond manufacturers at the quality assurance stage. These numbers are the directional shift of every facet from the optimal direction they should be at, according to the diamond's symmetry axes. Thus, we can see positive as well as negative directional shifts, depending on whether the facet is shifted clockwise or counterclockwise. A directional shift value of zero means that the facet is perfectly positioned on the diamond.
Another useful view is the top-down symmetry view, shown in Figure 5. This view shows the diamond surface as completely transparent, to allow an unobstructed view of the diamond's symmetry problems. In this example we can easily spot a slight crown-pavilion twist problem by examining the misalignment of the upper- and lower- girdle halves. Similar and more severe problems can be easily spotted with this view.
Finally, Figure 6 shows an interesting example of using the three-dimensional view.
If we look at the image on the left, we see a white area on the upper-girdle halves, representing severe light leakage from this area of the diamond. The girdle thickness at the meeting point of the upper-girdle halves and the girdle, 6.4%, is much thicker than the girdle thickness at the meeting points of the crown bezels and the girdle around it, 4.0% and 5.3%. This is a result of a common practice among diamond manufacturers known as girdle painting. This practice evolved when manufacturers wanted to add weight to their diamonds at the most obvious place for doing this - the girdle, but in a way that will not harm the diamonds' proportion grade. Since many gem labs only measure or grade the girdle thickness at the meeting points between the crown bezels and the girdle, adding thickness and thus weight, to the meeting points of the upper-girdle halves and the girdle seemed like the natural thing to do.
However, as cut grading systems change to include light performance considerations, this practice can no longer continue without consequences.
The standard brilliant comprises:
1 Table facet
8 Star facets
8 Kite or Upper Main Facets
16 Upper Girdle facets
Total facets: 33 Crown Facets
This is the waist band in the middle, and is sometimes faceted.
16 Lower Girdle
Total facets: 25 Pavilion Facets
Thus there are 58 facets in total.
Carat is actually a measurement of weight, NOT size. However, it should be relative to size. One carat is divided into 100 points. 1.00 ct is equal to .20 grams.
Two diamonds of equal quality can have different values depending on their cut, color and clarity.
Carat is the easiest of the 4 C's to determine. One carat is divided into 100 "points," so that a diamond of 75 points, for example, weighs .75 carats, 50 points weighs 1/2 carat etc. Fine quality can be found in diamonds of all carat weights. If a diamond is cut for beauty, and not maximum yield in weight, it is more desirable than a heavier weight and lumpier stone, and will have the appearance of a larger stone.
We at The Diamond Connection carry substantial "live" diamond inventory of all sizes and shapes on regular basis:
Diamonds are found in a range from colorless to yellowish, and judged according to a color grading scale from "D", which is totally colorless through "Z" which is vivid yellow. It is the colorless diamond that is most valued because it is the most rare. The difference between one color grade and another is very subtle, particularly to the untrained eye. Although increasing shades of yellow reduce the value of a diamond, they do not necessarily reduce its beauty. If a diamond is well cut, its refraction and dispersion of light will often disguise certain degrees of coloration. The average stone bought carries an I or J grading for its Color. In addition to diamonds listed from D to Z, there are twelve other colors called Fancies, and as the name implies, they are expensive.
||Pure White - the most prized color
||Exceptional white - colorless group
||Excellent white - colorless group
||Good white - colorless group
||White - colorless group
||Slightly tinted white/ white when viewed from top
||Slightly tinted white/ commercial white
||Tinted white/ still acceptable white when mounted
||Tinted white/ needs yellow setting to look its best
||Slightly yellowish/Tinted color-champagne
||Slightly yellowish/Tinted color-champagne
Most diamonds contain tiny natural birthmarks called inclusions. Most are not visible with the naked eye but can be seen with 10X magnification. Inclusions interfere with the dispersion of light and therefore the diamond's brilliance. The fewer and smaller the inclusions, the rarer the stone and higher the price.
While inclusions do not generally affect the diamond's beauty and usually cannot be seen, their presence reduces the price. Clarity is graded on a scale with a range from internally flawless (IF), very very small inclusions (VVS1-VVS2), very small inclusions (VS1-VS2), small inclusions (SI1-SI2) to imperfect (I1-I2-I3) with eye visible inclusions.
Practically all diamonds contain naturally occurring internal characteristics called inclusions. The size, nature, location and amount of inclusions determine a diamond’s clarity grade and thus its cost. One unique advantage of the Ideal Cut is that its sparkle can mask otherwise noticeable inclusions.
|FL - IF
||VVS 1 -VVS 2
||VS 1 - VS 2
||SI 1 - SI 2
||I 1 - I 3
No inclusions visible by an expert under 10X magnification.
|Minute-extremely difficult to find under 10X magnification.
VVS=Very, Very Slight inclusions
find under 10X magnification.
VS=Very Slight inclusions
|Noticeable, relatively easy to find under 10X magnification.
|Obvious under 10X magnification-usually to the naked eye.
Lasers have been used commercially for drilling diamonds since the late 1960's. It is possible to improve the appearance of diamonds which have dark magnetic pyrites and magnetite inclusions by drilling into the diamond surface and then bleaching out or chemically dissolving the inclusions with an etching fluid such as sulphuric acid and saltpetre. The drill holes are then usually filled with a highly refractive wax or synthetic resin and this protects the drill chanel against penetration of dust and dirt. This can be affected if your diamond is ever subjected to heat or acid as often is the case when being set in jewelry or worked on by an unsuspecting working jeweler. Since this treatment is fairly permanent, GIA Diamond Lab will grade Clarity enhanced-laser drilled diamonds.
This is a more recent enhancement by which inclusions and especially cracks which break the surface can be made more transparent and hence improve the clarity of a cut diamond. The cracks are filled under pressure (50 atmospheres) in a vacuum at high temperature (400 degrees Celsius) with a glass of refractive index close to that of diamond at 2.417. A color flash similar to that on the surface of a detergent bubble is visible due to the juxtaposition of the two different materials. Unfortunately the process though widely used is neither durable or permanent and will not withstand the cutting and repair processes involved in jewelry gold smithing.
Since this process is not permanent, GIA Diamond Lab will not grade Clarity enhanced-filled diamonds.
What's in a name?
When people shop for clothes, tools, or a car you often buy brand names, right? People drive a Mercedes, wear Nike shoes, stay in a Four Seasons hotel. If a company puts its name on its products, it stands proudly behind those products...right?. Brand names are associated with a level of quality, style and status that provides confidence to customers.
When shopping for a diamond, the same theory holds true.
Name brands provide an assurance of quality and authenticity. With a name brand, there's no mystery about the diamond you are buying. In addition to the importance of certification that should come with a diamond, branded diamonds will meet specific standards for cut, beauty and brilliance established by the company whose name it bears. With a branded diamond, you're assured of a name that stands behind the products it sells and meets high quality standards.
There's a ton of things to think about when buying a diamond. Do you know enough to judge the quality? Do you have a basis for comparing one diamond with the next? Are you buying from a jeweler who will give you good value? If you have concerns about how to go about making the best diamond purchase, then focusing on a name brand diamond can make selecting your diamond wayyyy easier, without worrying so much about the quality and value.
Guys, here is what may be the most important thing - she may prefer a branded diamond.
What woman doesn't like designer clothes? You don't have to be a rocket scientist to make the leap that she might like designer jewelry just as much.
Which branded diamonds are “in” ?
Ok she's dreaming of a branded diamond Which names will she recognize and covet the most? Here are some branded diamonds that are getting attention from the ladies.
The Leo Diamond
handcrafted by Leo Schachter is a name you may have heard of. You'll be assured of consistent quality and craftsmanship. The Leo Diamond is the first diamond ever to be measured and certified for its superior fire, sparkle and brilliance, and it actually comes with a certificate of proof. Very impressive. Hard to go wrong with a Leo.
Another branded diamond that's people are talking about is The Elexese Diamond These diamonds are cut to exacting proportions set by the Diamond Masters Guild, a prestigious group of trusted and experience diamond cutters and sellers. The Elexese Diamond claims to be perfectly shaped and flawlessly brilliant because they are cut to these strict standards. This promise ensures you get a diamond that offers the largest visual appearance and more brilliance than conventionally cut round diamonds of comparable color and clarity. From what I have seen the diamonds are stunning.
THE ASHOKA DIAMOND by William Goldberg is another name in branded diamonds. Ashoka's legend rose from its intriguing cut, breathtaking beauty, and the belief in its power to remove sorrow. (no kidding)
Whichever path you follow – branded or unbranded --in your quest for the most beautiful diamond, here are some things to keep in mind
BRANDING - A SAMPLER from A to Z
- Amorosso - trademarked - (Hong Kong and China) hearts and arrows brand initially launched in Shanghai - sold in Southeast Asia. Jewelry for engagements, weddings, anniversaries. www.yerushalmi.com
- Anastasia - elongated radiant cut - Russian cut.
- Ariella™ - 113 faceted new cut. www.liddiamonds.com
- Asmi - DTC licensed brand to be launched in the Middle East by D’damas in association with the Gitanjali Group, making this one of the first Indian brands to go global.
- Astree - 65 facets - Pola Cosmetics - Tokyo Japan.
- Blonde Diamonds - natural fancy color yellow diamonds - from palest ash to radiant honey blonde. Exclusively by Louis Glick, “For the woman who lives life in color”.
- Brilliant Rose - 66 facets - multi-faceted round. South African rough. Advertising campaigns. Brilliant Rose boutiques in Singapore and Malaysia. www.sookee.com.sg
- Canadia - Branded by virtue of the origin of the rough. Canadian brand diamonds - ideal cuts - maple leaf logo - have become symbols of Canada’s diamond industry. (Marketed by Rosy Blue, Backes & Strauss, Beny Sofer) . Retail locater online at www.canadia.com.
- Caressa - 59 facets - 6-sided proprietary cut modified hexagon - patented. Right Hand Rings are featured on the De Beers internet site. Bridal jewelry. www.caressa.net
- Carina Star - 6 sided hexagon - unique star in the crown. Trademarked and patented. Diaco.
- Cartier - 88 Fortune Facets - unique and unusual symmetry with 12 main facets (crown and pavilion) but with essentially a 6-fold symmetry. Cartier Boutiques in SE Asia.
- Cento - 100 facet - modified round. Prismastic scope to view the floral pattern design created by the 100 (37 crown + 63 pavilion) facets. Roberto Coin - advertised in all of the top fashion magazines including the leading fashion industry’s W magazine. www.robertocoin.com
- Crisscut Cushion® - 77 facets - new dimension to maximize the ultimate brilliance and fire that a diamond may possess. www.christopherdesigns.com
- Crisscut® Diamond - 77 facets - rectangular shaped diamond with maximum brilliance. Advertising in the USA in all of the top fashion magazines. www.crisscut.com
- Crown of Light - 90 facets - modified round - email@example.com
- Cupid - ideal 8-sided cupid cut.
- Cupio - 73 facets - unique 6-sided cut described as a hexagonal brilliant - patented - debuted in USA - Gemex studies for light return. www.kpsanghvi.com
- Czar Cut - 53 facets - 8-sided cut.
- Damas Cut - Digico / Gitanjali Group - cutting division and factory set up in Dubai to polish this patented cut.
- Daniel K - ideal square emerald cuts - available in perfectly matched pairs and layouts - 0.60 - 10.00 carats from D.D. Manufacturing & Daniel K. www.danielk.net.
- Diavin - Navin Gems - hearts and arrows ideal cuts. Brand registered in Hong Kong. China is pending. www.dnavin.com
- Divine Cut - 63 facets - Introduced in Las Vegas at 2005 JCK tradeshow. A tribute to the spirit of the 1960s, the unique positioning of the 63 (37 crown + 26 pavilion) faceted Divine Cut? is targeted at “those in search of peace of mind and spiritual empowerment”. www.shreeramkrishnaexport.com
- Dom Perignon - A special pink diamond inspired by the champagne. This cut is by the Steinmetz Group for the jewelry designer, Stephen Webster.
- Eighty Eight Cut - 88 facets - patented 8-sided cut. Featured in Diamond International boutiques throughout the Caribbean. Gemex System Light Performance tests. Finesse Diamonds New York. Trade advertising. Targeted consumer advertising. www.88cut.com
- Elara - 61 facets - 8 sided - square shape with cut corners with the faceting and brilliance of a round. Named for the brightest moon of the planet Jupiter. Elara‘s jewelry is available through premiere jewelers across the United States. USA national advertising. Celebrity promotions plus jewelry designs by fashion designers and featured at fashion shows. www.elaradiamonds.com
- Elexese - ideal cut - www.elexese.com
- Escada - 97 facets - 12-sided dodecagonal cut (modified round) - unique internal facet design. Designed to maximize fire through the crown and table, the diamond shows a distinctive symmetrical star pattern through the culet. Sold at Escada (a brand name synonymous with luxury) boutiques worldwide. www.escada.com
- Eternal Flame - jewelry brand - bridal collection - K.P.Sanghvi solitaires with hearts and arrows - retailers in China.
- Eurostar - signature hearts and arrows cuts.
- Excellent Cut - Tasaki. Japan. The logo is a swan. www.tasaki.co.jp
- Exelco - hearts and arrows and patented proprietary shapes. Factory dedicated to cutting and polishing hearts and arrows. Retail jewelry stores in Japan.
- Exire - small sizes - exact polish, symmetry - brilliant cut with high polishing standard. www.igcgroup.com
- Facets of Fire - 73/74 facets - trademarked round - and a square modified 62 facet princess. Keepsake.
- Fan Cut - unique shape - patented in the USA.
- Fancy Colours. Layouts and designs. Fancy pinks and yellows. Branding strategy for natural fancy colors. One of a kind layouts. The unique mix and match of colors and multi-color combinations of layouts depends on the availability of rough diamonds.
- Fancyyello - natural fancy yellow radiant diamonds - the color of sunshine. Designed in Paris. www.fancyello.com
- Fiamme - trademarked jewelry collection for Elexese diamonds.
- Fire of Africa - Mined, cut and polished in Botswana. Official Certificate. Diamonds from the Heart of Africa.
- Fire of the North - rough diamonds sourced from Ekati (BHP Billiton) and Diavik (Rio Tinto) in Canada’s Northwest Territories - cut and polished at the Diarough factory in the eastern Quebec town of Matane. Diamond Passport.
- Forevermark - Brand ionized on table of the stone. Sightholder participants including EFD for a princess cut. Exclusive to a limited group of retailers in Hong Kong. Special viewer.
- Forever Africa - Origin of rough plus cut and polished in Namibia. Now being sold retail in Namibia jewelry stores by NamCot, the first of 7 factories authorized to use the brand name.
- Gel?es - Dali Diamond has been involved in the development and marketing of Canadian diamonds including the development of their own BtoC brand with a complete branded package and certificate of origin.
- Gitanjali - advertised 25 patented cuts including the Fresia (modified round brilliant), Czar, Lotus, Azura, Butterfly, Dew (8-sided), Flame, Fiorella, Glory (square modified brilliant), Ivy, Jupiter, Lilac, Magnolia, Maharaja, Mars, Moon, Pine, Queen (octagonal shape), Saturn, Star, Sun (square modified brilliant), Tulip, Twinkle, Victoria (octagonal), and Wild Orchid. (Received patent for WIld Orchid Cut Jewel on November 15, 2005.)
- Hearts on Fire - round - displays hearts and arrows design. Proportionscope. Hearts on Fire boutiques in Taiwan. Available in USA, Europe, Canada, Malaysia, Singapore, and Australia. www.heartsonfire.com
- Hearts on Fire - 77 facets - Dream Diamond - displays hearts and arrows design. The patented Dream is an octagonal square cut diamond that maximizes all the classic elements - brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. Jewelry by Hearts On Fire collection. Proportion Scope®. www.heartsonfire.com
- Hearts on Fire launched a new “Be a Hero,” global marketing campaign that will run during the fourth quarter in the United States and more than 18 other countries. The creative will include billboards, television, radio, and magazine advertisements. The ads (created by Hearts on Fire’s in-house agency and Parallax Productions in Boston) are designed to draw a parallel between the Hearts on Fire diamond, and a man’s expression of love for his “perfect” woman.
- Ideal Cut Portfolio - super ideal cuts - round brilliants, princess, and asschers. Promotional co-branding programs with retailers. Professional advertising including window design, educational newsletters, in-store sales events, television spots, radio ads, newspaper ads, wooden jewelry boxes, and “whatever helps, we will do”. Online inventory is accessible through their website with complete and accurate data updated daily. Hasenfeld-Stein.
- Ideal Princess Cut - The name is trademarked by EFD.
- Ilanga - 65 facets - 8-sided cut. De Beers LV. www.debeerslv.com
- Isee2-8 - 81 facets (crown 41, girdle 8, pavilion 32) - octagonal modified brilliant. The Isee2-8 diamond is provided within the Isee2 program. www.isee2.com
- JB Diamonds - composite cut - 5 kite shaped diamonds forming a star. The company also cuts unique shapes for partners (in China) including Diamend.
- Kristall Classics - 81 facets - 10-sided cut. In an interview, Chad Haggar (Kristall Los Angeles) noted that the company was cutting and marketing a number of unique fancy cuts, and had developed 4 for the US market: the 10-Sided, the Radiant, the Symphony, and the the Starlight.
- Kristall Symphony - 89 facets - square radiant - modified corner cut princess. Kristall branded cuts stress the Russian cut and the origin of the Russian rough diamonds.
- Lazare Diamond -The World’s Most Beautiful Diamond - cut to ideal proportions - logo and 6 digit serial number are inscribed on the girdle of the diamond. www.lazarediamonds.com
- Le Lumiere - Diamonds of Light - hearts arrows design. Hong Kong and Southeast Asia. In the process of developing several branded jewelry lines centered around the theme of the numerical significance of the number 8. ”Fortune“ features hearts and arrows diamonds with a total of 88 hearts; and ”Life“ combined hearts and arrows diamonds with heartshape diamonds. The concept and designs of the jewelry are registered and patented. New patented pen set with a diamond in the cap with a mini-viewer to see the hearts and arrows pattern was launched by tennis stars Serena and Venus Williams. www.lelumiere.com
- Leo Diamond (USA) - Leo Cut (Europe) - 66 facets - modified round. Signet stores, Kay Jewelers. The Leo Diamond features a unique 66-faceted patented cut that maximizes the brilliance of the diamond. The brand was developed by Leo Schachter. www.theleodiamond.com
- Lily Cut® - 65 facets - flower-shaped cut selling in Hong Kong, China, Thailand, South Korea, Japan, Europe, USA, Australia and South Africa. Advertising in fashion and business magazines throughout the Far East including the Tattler, Cosmopolitan, Vogue, and bridal magazines. Known for its differentiated product design (its innovative shape sets beautifully in jewelry) this well established brand scores high for name recognition. The brand is now launching a new media campaign in the United States after years of successful advertising promotions in the Far East. www.lili-diamonds.com
- Love Diamond - hearts and arrows. Chow Sang Sang (CSS) connection in Hong Kong. Significant investment in marketing. More than 100 doors. www.thelovediamond.com
- LoveFire - hearts and arrows - 58 facets - trademarked - offers its authorized distributors television scripts, cinema ads, and billboard formats. Master Diamond Certificate. AGS ideal cut. GIA ex ex. www.lovefire.net
- Lovemark - 74 facets - round - patented. Marketing program. www.lovemarkdiamonds.com
- Lucida - 50 facets - square mixed cut (asscher/cushion) - modified brilliant crown with a step cut pavilion. Tiffany.
- Lumina - ideal cut diamond jewelry featuring Lazare diamonds - online and off. The Ann-Louise Group has expanded to a total of 12 jewelry stores in every major shopping mall across the province of British Columbia and Alberta, Canada. www.annlouise.ca/live/lumina.php
- Maharajah - patented modified round shape. firstname.lastname@example.org
- Magnum Rose - pink diamonds designed for the jeweler, Stephen Webster - by the Steinmetz Group.
- Movado - 114 facets - modified round cut. www.movadoboutique.com
- Nakshatra - DTC licensed brand in association with a group of 3 diamond sightholders (Gitanjali Group, Dimexon Diamonds, and Mahendra Brothers).
- Naledi - South African rough. www.sagems.com
- Part Heart™ - This LID composite heartshape is made from two pearshapes.
- Pashoshe - perfect little princess of endearing charm.
- Passion8 Diamond - patented ideal cut round - point of sales and brochures - marketing material. Australia and New Zealand. www.passion8diamonds.com
- People‘s Diamond - 128 facets - private label.
- Perfect Diamond - hearts and arrows - in the United States - Natalie K - bridal market. www.yerushalmi.com
- Perfect 10 - 81 facets - 10 hearts and 10 arrows. Osaka Japan. Rough is from Russia and the cut was developed by a Russian company. Gems Classique marketing in Japan - advertising and product endorsements.
- PM™ - Perfectly Matcheddiamonds - Brand is based on the concept that the diamonds have identical tables, depths and angles, and uniform proportion and symmetry. www.pmdiamonds.com
- Phoenix Cut - 85 facets - based on the emerald shape (girdle) and princess (crown and pavilion). Russian make. Designed at Smolensk Kristall in the 1990’s. www.igatdiamonds.com/uk/contactus.cfm
- Pink Luxury - Diamonds Direct is the exclusive Canadian distributor of these branded natural fancy color diamonds. email@example.com
- Polar Light - high color - high purity - polishing facility near the mine in Canada - Yellowknife NWT. To be launched in late 2005 or early 2006.
- Premiera - exclusive double star pattern observed through a “pattern” loupe that displays the reflection of the diamond’s angles in the shape of 2 stars, one on top of the other. firstname.lastname@example.org
- Princessa™ - LID fused princess comprises 4 precisely matched square princess cut diamonds in a design that is priced significantly lower than an equivalent single stone would cost.
- PrincessPlus™ - 101 facets - patented and trademarked - princess shape - optimized its light return by the way the facets are positioned and cut. One of the features of the cut is “brightness” and the way EFD explains and quantifies how much light is returned. Return of Light Certificate. Set in jewelry - engagement rings, pendants, earrings, etc. Strong advertising and marketing support. Available at retailers in the USA. Featured online on Amazon. Advertising targets the Bridal Jewelry market with engagement rings. Retail jeweler locater online at www.princessplus.com
- Pristine Hearts - 73 facets (33 crown + 40 pavilion) - modified round brilliant cut - a heart shape is faceted around the culet to show a faceted heart design visible through the crown. New York office. www.lakhigroup.com
- Private Label - Private label collection of South African diamonds. “A legendary diamond brand does not just happen. It must stand the test of time.” www.sagems.com http://www.rlacreative.com/sagems-sad/bb.html
- Pro68 - 68 facets - octagonal shape. Coordinated with the DTC and featured on www.forevermark.com, Eurostar’s Pro68 is a very effective branded diamond campaign in Taiwan that targets professional men and women.
- Proudly South African. The brand is sold in more than 30 Goldheart shops in Singapore and Malaysia. Sales through CSS Jewellery and Luk Fook Group in more than 80 stores in Hong Kong. Branding Program. The campaign was launched in March 2005, and is said to have received good support from the South African government. Retail partners are provided with marketing information including a CD, brochures, and leaflets with educational messages aimed at guiding customers through the process. Consumer-oriented advertising campaigns in individual markets includes: In Hong Kong, print advertisements and editorials in leading consumer magazines; in Singapore and Malaysia, television commercials and advertisements (in local consumer magazines and in-flight publications by national airlines).
- Pure Lustre - South African rough. Katz ideal cut. Certificate - laser inscription - brochures - in-store training.
- Pure Perfection - ideal rounds and princess cuts. FTK Worldwide Manufacturing.
- Queen - 8-sided cut - Digico.
- Queen of Hearts™ - modified cushion shape with rounded corners - superior optics - 8 pavilion main facets (like a round) together with a crown that is similar to a radiant.
- Rand Diamond - Zero-Tolerance-Precision-Cut. “Birth certificate”, called a Provenance Report, tracks the diamond from the mine through its cutting factory to the consumer. South African rough. www.randbrand.com
- Red Box - ideal cut program - www.Stuller.com
- Regent Cut - 66 facets - (41 crown + 25 pavilion) displays hearts and arrows effects. 12-sided modified square - wider corners than other modified squares. Patented and trademarked.
- Ritani - bridal jewelry.
- Royal Asscher - 74 facets - octagonal shape (with very ”bold“ cut corners) modern asscher cut. Fabrikant Couture is featuring the Royal Asscher in a new jewelry collection designed by Susan Fabrikant (the diamond’s brand manager). The “Diamond Thread” line is all about bridal and fashion jewelry. email@example.com
- Russian Princess - HRA - hearts and arrows private label diamond.
- Scintilla - fancy cut diamonds - logo ionized on table of the stone as brand. Set in jewelry including Petali Collection. Antwerp cut diamonds, jewelry designed in Monaco, sold in Dubai.
- Secret Inside - hearts and arrows. Brochure with story.
- Star129 - 129 facets - modified round brilliant. Gemex report. www.star129.com
- Star145 - 145 facets - modified round with special faceting arrangement.
- Starburst - 88 facets - 8 sided radiant.
- Starlight - 98 facets - octagonal - set in jewelry. Exclusive to King Fook Jewellery in Hong Kong. Described as having 8 conventional hearts and a star that is easily viewed. Kristall Smolensk.
- Starlight - name trademarked by Mgm Jewelry Mfg. for a special cut round 10-sided diamond.
- Sun Diamonds - Sun Fire and FireStar.
- Tamsin - 62 facets - 8-sided octagonal shape exclusive to Fraser Hart Ltd. a family owned business with 30 stores in the United Kingdom including Glasgow. www.tamsindiamond.co.uk
- Tango - as in “it takes two to tango!” - brand concept for 2 polished diamonds cut from 1 rough diamond.
- Tattoo Your Diamond - www.t-your-d.com (Every diamond is inscribed individually to suit a customer’s request. No long term brand identification with the product in the true sense of the word.) It’s the concept that is branded.
- Tria - patented (China and USA) star shaped composite diamond using a Tri-Star triangular patented diamond as the center stone. www.triabykarp.com
- Tr? Stelle - 3 stone rings with laser inscription. Each diamond is laser inscribed with a serial number and one of the words “Past. Present. and Future.” www.pastpresentandfuture.com
- Tri-Star - patented cut - trademarked name - triangular shape. www.karppgroup.com
- Vera Wang Diamond - the name has been trademarked - it will be interesting to see what shape the diamond takes.
- Web Cut - 49 facets - (24 crown + 24 pavilion + table). Octagonal shape. Design is patented. Exclusive dealership basis. Marketing support includes advertisements in fashion magazines. Loose or set in jewelry. Stones up to 50 points are polished at the company‘s factory in Ukraine and larger sizes are polished in their factory in Antwerp. Singer and actress Samantha Mumbai stole the show at the Spiderman II premiere in a diamond dress that was set with Web Cut diamonds. Dali has positioned the WebCut as its flagship diamond. Most recently Dali Diamond sealed a partnership with the internationally acclaimed jewelry designer, Stephen Webster, for the creation and distribution of a high-end jewelry range, Femme Fatale, prominently featuring the WebCut. www.thewebcut.com
- Y - yellow fancy color diamonds in Supergem’s Eternity Jewels collection. The mystical beauty of yellow diamonds. UAE based.
- YEI - patented modified round - multifaceted special cut with a unique 6-fold crown facet design.
- Zales Diamond - 82 facets - 8-sided radiant cut. Gemprint. IGI Certificate. Gemex. www.zales.com
Some Notable Diamonds:
Such mystique surrounds diamonds, that the largest have been given names. Some historic diamonds include:
The Hope Diamond:
Cut from a 132.5 carat gem, this 45.52 carat blue cushion is now on display at the Smithsonian Institution and is known for its famous curse. Most of those who owned it died in revolutions, suffered scandal, or met with financial ruin.
The two largest gem diamonds in existence were cut from the same huge rough stone, a 3,106 carat diamond weighing IVi pounds and measuring 2 x 2 % x 4 inches. It was discovered in 1705 in a South African mine and was presented to King Edward VII of England. The stone was cut to form Cullinan 1. A second cleavage produced the 317.4 carat Cullinan II, now mounted in the British Crown, plus 116 other gems.
This 69.42 carat pear was cut from a 240.8 carat rough found in 1966. It was sold at auction to Cartier of New York for $1,050,000 and purchased the next day by actor Richard Burton for his wife, at the time, actress Elizabeth Taylor.
This 140.5 carat cushion brilliant, now on display in the Louvre, was once one of the French crown jewels. It graced the hat of Marie Antoinette and later the hilt of Napoleon's sword.
Most famous of the world's lost diamonds is this 137.27 carat yellow, whose history dates from the 15th Century. After a succession of owners, it became a part of the Austrian crown jewel collection. The gem disappeared during World War I when the Austrian imperial family was forced into Swiss exile.
Some diamonds have helped fund devastating civil wars in Africa, destroying the lives of millions. Conflict diamonds are those sold in order to fund armed conflict and civil war. Profits from the trade in conflict diamonds, worth billions of dollars, were used by warlords and rebels to buy arms during the devastating wars in Angola, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Sierra Leone. Wars that have cost an estimated 3.7 million lives.
Conflict diamonds are diamonds illegally traded to fund conflict in war-torn areas, particularly in central and western Africa. The United Nations (UN) defines conflict diamonds as "...diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, or in contravention of the decisions of the Security Council." These diamonds are sometimes referred to as "blood diamonds."
While the wars in Angola and Sierra Leone are now over, and fighting in the DRC has decreased, the problem of conflict diamonds hasn't gone away. Diamonds mined in rebel-held areas in Côte d'Ivoire, a West African country in the midst of a volatile conflict, are reaching the international diamond market. Conflict diamonds from Liberia are also being smuggled into neighboring countries and exported as part of the legitimate diamond trade.
At our store, "Diamond Connection", our supply of diamonds is from sources that are all free of any conflicts!
What's being done to stop conflict diamonds?
A major milestone occurred in 2003, when the government-run initiative known as the Kimberley Process was introduced to stem the flow of conflict diamonds. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) imposes requirements on participants to certify that shipments of rough diamonds are conflict-free.